May. 26, 2010 - Issue #762: Timeland
Revue
As good as a rest
A name change and a perception shift at the Manor Casual Bistro
The Manor » A change will do you good / Bryan Birtles
For those of you unfamiliar with the Bistro—and I can't imagine there would be many of you—it's tucked away in the trendy High Street district, just off 124 Street and 102 Avenue. Situated in a grand old mansion, it has always exuded an aura of grandeur and sophistication.
Judging by the new name, the Manor Casual Bistro, the idea was to transform the Manor into something a bit more approachable. "Casual with class" is how the website describes it.
Driving up, my habitual Manor dining companion and I didn't immediately notice any striking changes. The exterior looked a bit sleeker, perhaps, but not in any radically definitive way. I must confess, though, my memory has been known to flee on inopportune vacations now and again.
Once inside, the changes are more evident—subtle, but apparent. We were greeted with a lighter, more casual look and a friendlier air. Sunlight streams in through the big windows and white makes a refreshing appearance on the walls, the ceiling, and several chairs. Simple table settings and minimal extras complete the look. The overall effect is modern yet cozy, comfortable yet classy.
Various dining rooms are interspersed throughout the Manor, and we found ourselves seated at a table for two on the fairly packed main floor. Our very busy waiter stopped by, in his casual but chic outfit, and it was immediately apparent that more than just the look of the Manor had changed. This was not the aloof service the old Manor was sometimes guilty of—it was warm, friendly and, well, quite a refreshing change.
Before long, our affable waiter plunked down a couple of glasses of water, and we didn't even have to ask. Each water even came complete with a few bright red cranberries floating on top. The Manor may have gone casual, but it clearly hasn't lost its flair.
My friend debated expanding her horizons and ordering the Roasted Beet Salad, but ultimately succumbed to her weakness for the Manor's trademark Spinach Salad ($8). This particular salad has retained its spot on the menu for good reason. It's iiithe way to eat spinach–topped with salty Italian bacon, creamy goat cheese, velvety hardboiled egg and crisp carrots. And the best part? A warm honey mustard vinaigrette that seamlessly melds everything together.
I resisted the urge to follow her lead and instead dug into a vibrant red cup of borscht ($4), one of the daily specials. I loved that the chunky beets and veggies still retained a degree of firmness, but the vinegary bite was a bit too overpowering for me. It refused to be tamed, even when I stirred in the liberal dollop of dill-tinged sour cream that was floating on top.
Empty dishes disappeared, waters were filled and then, dinner. My friend made a valiant attempt to tackle the big bowl of Beef Stroganoff ($22) that was placed before her. She declared the cubes of tenderloin to be pleasantly tender, but was thrown off by the very vocal pine taste of rosemary, an herb she didn't typically run into in her numerous beef stroganoff encounters. She also wished the kitchen would have used a bit more of a liberal hand with the sour cream.
I deviated from the menu again and went for another daily special: salmon with maple pear cream, grilled garlic shrimp and wild and basmati rice ($30). My reward was a plate bearing one of the most tender filets of salmon imaginable. Actually, everything was cooked with care—the veggies were pleasantly crisp, the rice was exceptionally fluffy and not once did the shrimp veer towards rubber band territory. My tongue thought the garlic on the shrimp was suspiciously similar to the powdered variety, though, and it didn't seem quite right to call the rice "wild and basmati" when the wild grains only made an occasional appearance.
I washed everything down with a glass of Sparkling Jasmine Tea ($5.50)—a subtly bubbly tea with a decidedly sweet edge to it. It was kind of like of a mild but sparkling apple juice, but the elegant champagne flute it was served in made it seem much more sophisticated.
Despite a couple of misses, which might just be a matter of personal taste, the Manor Casual Bistro is much like it used to be but friendlier, more approachable and, dare I say, better. V
Mon – Thu (11 am – 10 pm); Fri & Sat (11 am – 12 am); Sun (11 am – 2 pm & 5 pm – 9 pm)
The Manor Casual Bistro
10109 - 125 St, 780.482.7577
More info about The Manor Casual Bistro →
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