Jul. 09, 2008 - Issue #664: Rocky 12
Accent European Lounge
European Lounge puts the Accent on Whyte
Simon Hamilton, a 24-year-old, South African-born bartender, is not only a recent business grad of the U of A, he’s now the operating manager of the hip Accent European Lounge. He is modest, yet clearly proud of the restaurant’s current success. “It took us awhile to get to where we are, but there has been a shift and we’re starting to get very busy,” he optimistically shared. “In this industry, it’s easy to fail. We looked at what was missing in Edmonton’s dining scene and tried to create something that would fill different demands.” The result was the upbeat, trendy, European-focused Accent Lounge.
A smiling server in gold flip flops greeted us immediately upon entering the restaurant. As you might expect from a lounge, the space was softly lit and covered in dark wood and copper tones. Exposed beams of wood ran across the ceiling and silver lanterns were harnessed to the wall in strategically placed spots around the room for that perfect level of light. I felt like I’d been transported to an old English pub with a decidedly fancier feel.
High-rising tables for two with sleek bar stools and glowing tealights intermingled with low-lying, casual booths and comfy tables for up to 10 people. Funky modern art displayed abstract and landscape scenes from Europe. Soft jazz music danced through the air. The atmosphere had intrigued me, but what really mattered was the menu. Being of Danish descent I was quite curious about what dishes, out of the thousands of European specialities, would be offered.
The menu didn’t disappoint. A balanced selection of well-priced German weiner schnitzel, Hungarian beef goulash, steak tartar and French mornet offered tempting choices. “We spent months trying dishes and basically went around the world, food-wise, to find the ones we liked. They are staple European dishes, but with our own twist,” Hamilton explained. “Our plan is to add more.”
Besides the European selections, an assortment of salads, sandwiches, pastas and more standard entrees like salmon, chicken and filet mignon were also available. Appetizers ranged from classic bruschetta to garlic shrimp to a whole tail of bacon-wrapped lobster. We decided on the hummus ($9) to start, and after sifting through the extensive imported beer and wine list, ordered the Czech Litovel Light ($6.50/pint) and German Warsteiner Dunkel Dark ($6.25/pint). For dinner, my husband went with salmon. I choose the French Mornet—tonight, I was all about the European experience.
The quick, attentive service delighted us. Our drinks and appetizer arrived swiftly and I was shocked to see what resembled a small, wooden baseball bat resting on top of the bowl of hummus. “You muddle the spread into the consistency you like,” our server offered in response to our confusion. “Chunky or creamy, it’s up to you!” My husband was like a kid with a new toy and got to work immediately. He started banging away with the mallet until he felt it was perfect—and perfect it was.
Light orange in colour, the hummus was peppery and packed just the right punch in the garlic and chickpea departments. It was accompanied by crisp and crunchy ciabatta, flatbread and baguette toasts, lightly seasoned in garlic and herbs. We were highly entertained by dipping and scooping large piles of hummus onto the different styles of bread, and our appetizer disappeared within minutes.
We didn’t have long to digest all that bread before our entrees were delivered. My husband’s salmon ($23) was magnificent. It tasted of fresh rosemary and sweet maple and was served with a large amount of colourful veggies. The fish was soft and flaky and the bite I was able to swindle from him melted in my mouth on impact.
My mornet ($14) was even more delicious. Served in a plain white bowl, the dish seemed to be the French version of shepherd’s pie. Tender morsels of chicken and juicy slices of Portobello mushrooms sprinkled with grated parmesan cheese, rested on top of a hefty pile of creamy mashed potatoes. Each bite was pure bliss, offering an incredible blend of strong parmesan and Portobello flavours with lighter hints of the white wine cream sauce. I caught myself trying to think up ways to recreate the mornet at home.
Despite a very distinct full feeling, nothing was stopping me from cracking that dessert menu. I skipped the fruit-filled crepe, brownie with cream cheese frosting and Italian sorbet with champagne in favour of the Blackout Torte ($7). Layers of moist chocolate cake filled with Parisienne cream—for a chocaholic, that’s pretty much impossible to pass up. But, after a few bites of the rich cake topped with a massive scoop of whipping cream, I was glad I had my husband there to help finish it.
At Accent, being 24 years old no longer means just sitting around waiting to figure out what to do with the rest of your life. For four recent business grads it means hard work, lots of fun and having discovered the difficult recipe for restaurant success.
For just under $80, including tax, we experienced a taste of European food and flair. Next time, I plan to try out Germany. V
Tue, Wed (5 pm - 10 pm); Thu (5 pm - 11 pm)
Fri, Sat (5 pm - 1 am); Sun (5 pm - 9 pm)
Accent European Lounge
8223 - 104 St, 780.431.0179
accentlounge.com
More info about Accent European Lounge →
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