Jun. 09, 2010 - Issue #764: Hot Summer Guide 2010

Berried treasure

It's work versus reward when it comes to berries

The northern climate does not favour fruit. Harsh winters, inconsistent precipitation and the omnipresent risk of frost—even in summer—preclude the establishment of citrus orchards or peach plantations. Berries are the exception, but a botanical technicality is that very few of the tiny fruits known as "berries" are technically such. To be considered a true berry, the fruit must develop from a specific part of the flower, namely, the ovary wall. Gooseberries and currants are true berries, but scarcely register in terms of popularity. Deviants from this pattern of fruit formation may include false berries such as blueberries and cranberries. Raspberries are even more complex, for the individual scarlet spheres that comprise a single raspberry are themselves individual fruits; this is an aggregate fruit. Strawberries share even less with the true berries, for a strawberry does not develop from the flower and is thus deemed an accessory fruit.

Botanical trivia notwithstanding, the word berry implies a tiny, juicy, vividly-coloured fruit that reaches peak abundance in summer. Berries, which require fewer resources than large fruit trees, prosper in high latitudes and imbue the greens of summer with a confetti-like scatter of red and violet. Three berry species—raspberries, Saskatoon berries and wild blueberries—characterize Northern Alberta. Each is an ambassador to a different region. Raspberries are the eager occupants of urban backyards, frequently sending renegade shoots into alleys and side streets. Saskatoon berries hold quiet court along river banks and farmyards, and are a staple of u-pick operations. Wild blueberries are elusive denizens of the boreal forest, prospering in sandy soil and recently burned areas. The amount of effort required to enjoy these ephemeral petits-fruits varies immensely from wandering in alleys in an opportunistic search for raspberries to wilderness reconnaissance in quest of blueberries.

One need not look past the city limits to find raspberries. These vibrant red clusters thrive in the city and locating a harvest-ready shrub generally involves word of mouth. Raspberry branches are rife with thorns, but the promise of sun-ripened produce far outweighs the risk of pricked fingers. Picking urban raspberries allows the satisfaction of gathering, rather than purchasing food, and minimizes travel time to unfamiliar landscapes.

The Saskatoon berry is an inexorable part of the prairie landscape and its name is derived from the Cree word for this fruit, misâskwatômin. The Edmonton area boasts numerous u-pick farms, ideal for those who wish an afternoon of berry picking. Janelle and Aaron Herbert maintain a stand of Saskatoon berries on their commercial vegetable farm, Riverbend Gardens. Janelle represents the third generation of her family to cultivate that patch of land, which nestles in a crook of the river on the city's northeastern frontier. "We operate on the honour system," Herbert explains. "It's a good system because we're busy preparing vegetables for the market, but we can stop and visit with berry pickers in our orchard." Even though the rising tide of urban sprawl creeps toward their property, she notes that it is advantageous to be close to the city, since the majority of pickers are from the Edmonton area.

Numerous cultivars of Saskatoon berry exist, and distinguished from one another by nuances in taste and appearance. The Saskatoon bushes at Riverbend Gardens represent the "Smoky" cultivar. This is the most widely grown commercial cultivar, and is prized for its hardiness and reliable berry production. Herbert concurs, noting that the bushes require minimal upkeep. "We mow the grass around them, remove any 'weedy' trees that try to grow in the orchard and prune the bushes so they are easier to pick from, but basically they don't need a lot of maintenance." The berries are usually ripe and ready for picking in the third week of July. Herbert remarks that buying local produce continues to grow in popularity and is thus a boon for her family. "We enjoy working from home, working outdoors and with each other. It's a good setup."

Wild blueberries are the most elusive of this berry trifecta, and one must trek far beyond the reaches of urban civilization to gather these miniature cerulean orbs. Finding wild blueberries requires both luck and local knowledge. Picking them is labour intensive; the berries grow on sprawling, elfin shrubs that frequently keep company with prickly reindeer lichen. Wild blueberries are approximately 1/6 the size of their domestic counterparts, and one must pick them for the better part of a day to have enough for significant consumption. And then, there are bears. Blueberries are a coveted treat for both grizzlies and black bears, so caution is recommended when seeking these fruits. I have never encountered a bear in my years of blueberry picking, but still harbour deep respect for these bruins. The flavour of wild blueberries is incomparable, though, and domestic blueberries taste watery by comparison.

Berries are indeed a highlight of summer. They occupy a gradient of landscapes from the urban to the truly wild, bolster local agriculture and pack an incredible amount of flavour into a very small package. Their versatility is remarkable; berries are amenable to jams, freezing whole and baking, all of which permit the appreciation of berries long after autumn winds and winter snows have chased away the warmth of summer. Ultimately, to pick and eat berries is to revel in the appreciation of fruit that flourishes in an oppresive northern climate. V  vueweekly.com comments: powered by Disqus