Mar. 13, 2007 - Issue #595: Mark Templeton
Brunch with the Upper Crust
What I love most about the restaurant scene is that this city can still surprise me. In the past few weeks, I’d had average Greek and two meals—one dissatisfying supper and a pretty good lunch—at guilty-pleasure, trendier chains. However, a single trip to a reliable Edmonton gem was enough to set me right. In fact, this brunch knocked me on my ass.
The comfortably wooded foyer at the side entrance was warm and crowded, but the crowd easily made enough room for my family unit. The vast room that stretched off to my left was pulsing with diners, ranging from university students to yuppie families and the bluehair crowd. The walls were sponge-painted in a mottled light yellow, against which solid artwork, elaborate wooden curio cabinets and a chalkboard featuring the take-out menu and deli specials stood out with quiet dignity.
My wife was already surveying an enormous display of baked goods on the right when our hostess approached. She seemed somewhat skeptical, but the cavernous dining area immediately accommodated our request for a booth. Just outside the new expansion (the “Sitting Room”, according to exterior signage), our table was on a high-traffic route but deep and comfortable. The Sitting Room was lit by afternoon sunlight pouring through a huge bank of windows, which we could see without being blinded ourselves.
We were left with both lunch and Saturday brunch menus, as the latter would be served for another 20 minutes. While the lunch menu featured appealing choices like samosas, lasagna, quiche and rainbow trout for up to $12, I was fantasizing of an old-fashioned fry up. Even the pleasantly varied wine selection for under $6 a glass didn’t tempt me.
I scanned through some refined brunch dishes, including French toast, eggs three ways and tasty salad descriptions. Despite being tempted by the eggs Florentine, I realized that I was at a place renowned for its sandwiches and selected the shrimp salad on cheese bread ($7.95). My wife chose the large four-salad selection ($9.50) and a baked Brie plate ($10.50) for our daughter. (Yes, that sounded as pretentious to order as it was to read.)
Our server was adorably nervous about her first shift, but treated us like gold and knew a surprising amount about the bakery counter, her usual haunt. Her knowledge would come in handy for dessert, I thought, as she carefully noted our drink orders of V8 ($2), coffee ($2) and orange juice ($2).
We sat and enjoyed the vibrant thrum of a busy restaurant and viewed the unceasing stream of patrons and passing platters of delicious comestibles.
The background noise was soothing rather than overwhelming and we could carry on a quiet conversation. We distracted our preschooler with the usual crayons and colouring book as my wife sipped happily at her coffee. They brought her cream in a tiny, chilled metal pitcher that she always thinks is a nice touch. We were hungry, and didn’t have long to wait before the kitchen disgorged our feast.
It isn’t often that I come across cuisine that simply relies on itself for presentation. The artistry on our plates came from their arrangement of fresh, colourful foodstuffs and not from some food stylist in a magazine. My wife’s salad plate was a riot of colour, with different mixtures occupying each of the compass points. The Greek salad had first caught her eye, and she enthused about its bite-sized morsels. She savoured it, the earthier bean salad and the tart vinaigrette and fresh cabbage of the coleslaw with equal gusto, as a light hand on the dressing had guaranteed their presence without overwhelming. The creamy potato salad she sampled but left so that she would retain room for the upcoming dessert.
My own side of dill-laced potato salad I devoured greedily, between bites of my thick sandwich. The cheese element of the white bread turned out to be swirled within it, making for a delightfully variegated texture despite the fact that it was rather dry. Though dressed with my own crisp vegetables and a slice of real cheddar, the shrimp salad was thick and a little cloying, forcing me to glance with envy at my bride’s obvious delight. The baked Brie platter included a generous wedge of warm cheese in its soft rind, as well as crackers and a few slices of bread. The heavier fare was balanced by a collection of freshly sliced fruit and berries.
Despite a prodigious amount of food already delivered, we still felt light enough to consider those desserts my wife had eyed. Based on our server’s rave recommendation, we decided to split a staff-favourite upside down date cake ($4.25) and ordered a chocolate cupcake ($2.50), ostensibly for our daughter. We started packing up the loose toys, strewn clothing and accessories that have become necessities since we became parents. We probably should have spent the time thanking whatever deities occurred to us.
Our daughter’s cupcake was very good, and fully enjoyed by its target market. Our date cake, on the other hand, was sublime. The entirety was laced with toffee sweetness from its warm molten topping. A pecan lay exposed on top and curls of real whipped cream gilded its edge. Clearly, these Upper Crust staffers knew a good thing when they tasted it.
The Upper Crust Café has survived happily at its prominent spot on 109 Street for over 20 years. After we had cherished the meal we had for only $41 before tip, I knew full well the café would be around for another 20. I also knew that, after any future stretch of standard meals at unexceptional venues, I had found another place that would confirm why I love what I do.
Inexpensive, approachable cuisine enjoyed by one and all defines this urban gem. Plus, they serve a brunch that would bring my passion for amazing food back in moments.
As an added bonus, it turned out that we had parked in a loading zone and didn’t get a ticket. V
Mon - Sat to 9 pm, closed Sundays
Saturday Brunch to 12:30 pm
Upper Crust Café & Caterers
10909 - 86 Avenue
433.0810
More info about Upper Crust Café & Caterers →
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