Aug. 31, 2011 - Issue #828: Hollerado

Culinary voyage

Tasting not only India but the island of Fiji at Indian Fusion

The Pacific Islands are sorely underrepresented in Edmonton's culinary scene, while dining options that represent Caribbean islands, notably Jamaica and Trinidad, continue to expand. Typical Caribbean dishes, including jerk chicken, roti and goat curry, are now familiar and widely available to Western audiences. Western perception of Pacific Island culinary traditions, conversely, tends toward spit-roasted pig, poi and other luau fare. While not wholly incorrect, this perception is chiefly borne of a thriving Hawaiian tourism industry, rather than the everyday food preparation of Pacific Islanders. A great disparity persists in our knowledge of Caribbean versus Pacific Island cuisine, and yet both are influenced by a culinary superpower: India.

Indeed, the heady spice blends of the Subcontinent lend their distinctive tang and zip to many Caribbean and Pacific Island dishes. At least one option for sampling Pacific Island cuisine exists in Edmonton. Indian Fusion: The Curry House occupies a snug space southwest of Grant MacEwan University. The walls and tables are dressed in rich burgundy, and a floor to ceiling mirror gives the illusion of space. Saffron yellow napkins bloom like papery flowers from mouths of wine goblets. Natural light spills in through a sizeable, west-facing window and a fecund spider plant cascades down a wall. The space is intimate but does not feel small.

Indian Fusion's menu spans the familiar territory of butter chicken, vindaloo and korma, but significant attention is given to the Pacific Islands, namely, Fiji. We select two Fijian dishes, rooster julum ($14.95) and pumpkin chokha ($10.95), as well as two lesser-known Indian dishes, mattar paneer ($12.95) and fish goan curry ($14.95). A complimentary plate of fragile pappadums punctuates a significant but not unpleasant wait. The pappadums are riddled with fiery black peppercorns, and a salty-sweet tamarind dipping sauce calms their bite.

Rooster julum dresses juicy chucks of fowl in thick, brick-red sauce. The meat itself is darker and more deeply flavoured than chicken, but the presence of small bones is somewhat irritating. It is a trade-off; meat cooked on the bone typically possesses greater nuance than its boneless counterpart, but the bones themselves may be sharp and numerous. Fortunately, the ample cilantro and tomatoes that adorn the tangy sauce compensate for the devilish bones.

Pumpkin chokha matches autumn-orange cubes of the eponymous squash with coriander and crispy fried kaffir lime leaves. Initial flavours of citrus and spice give way to a well-rounded dénouement of sweet pumpkin. It is an unexpected and most welcome combination of ingredients, and one that is supremely amenable to pillowy pieces of warm naan ($2.25).

From the Indian side of the menu, mattar paneer pairs large, tangy rectangles of firm, white cheese with toothsome green peas. A tomato-based sauce sings with curry and crunchy coriander seeds, while a generous sprinkle of cilantro leaves adds additional zest. The residual heat of the dish is significant and dulled little by the naan.

Finally, fish goan curry includes firm, white basa filets with a rich coconut sauce. Goan cuisine, which hails from the southwestern Indian province of Goa, heavily favours fish and coconut. Both are inherently sweet, and liberal addition of red chilies accentuates their mild essence. Sturdy triangles of whole-wheat roti ($1.95) are handy implements for rescuing the residual dregs of sauce.

Restaurants in Edmonton that offer dishes of the Pacific Islands are scarce, but Fijian curries of Indian descent are available at Indian Fusion. This is but one component of the Fijian culinary tradition and is not characteristic of all south Pacific cuisine, which is an improbability, given the thousands of islands that riddle this expansive body of water. That aside, the ingredients are well thought-out, the preparation thoughtful and the flavours cohesive. Ultimately, Indian Fusion presents the opportunity to sample the dynamic flavours of both India and Fiji, providing the diner with a tantalizing culinary voyage well worth the taking.

Indian Fusion: The Curry House
10322 - 111 St
780.752.5500

 


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