Mar. 24, 2010 - Issue #753: Zion I
Revue
Smooth operator
Dadeo's food and southern hospitality keeps packing 'em in
People come here to have fun. The energy level is high, as efficient young staff bounce from booths, to tables, to counters, to booths. They serve, they clean, they flambé, they do whatever needs to be done to serve in the tradition of southern hospitality. Even the owner, herself, is up and down the entire length of the restaurant every few seconds, working her oysters off, welcoming arriving patrons, wiping down tables and bringing out intriguing Cajun dishes. There isn't a chore her staff does that she isn't willing to do as well.
It had been quite a few years since I last reviewed Dadeo, and thought it would be fun to go for a night out with my buddy, Graham. To start off, we ordered the Cajun Calamari ($11) and the Bayou Gumbo ($7). The calamari here was among the best one could hope for. It was marinated in buttermilk, deep-fried and tossed with minced red onion and Cajun spice.
The texture was perfect, the flavor was distinctive and the spicing was lively, but not overbearing. The serving was generous and it is an ideal dish for sharing. To be honest, I can't imagine taking someone there and not having at least one of us ordering the Cajun Calamari.
As for the Bayou Gumbo, the soup had decent portions of andouilli sausage, chicken, shrimp, vegetables and rice. It was also tasty enough but, unfortunately, had been poorly thickened. I could actually taste the thickening agent, which I'd bet was cornstarch. It was still quite palatable, but hardly what I'd call a gumbo; and it's something that perhaps needs to be addressed.
Having lived in Georgia for a while, I became quite fond of catfish. So for my main course I chose the Blackened Catfish Salad ($15). A large filet of blackened catfish was served over mixed greens, bell peppers, cucumber and mandarin wedges. The buttermilk basil dressing was a nice bridge that complemented both the salad and the fish. The selection was light, refreshing and satisfying.
Graham tried one of four combos that are offered. If you aren't familiar with a particular restaurant or type of food, I strongly recommend combos. In terms of tasting a wide variety, it gives you the best bang for your buck. Graham chose the Combo Ya-Ya ($16), consisting of blackened shrimp and scallops, the veggie jambalaya, coleslaw and two large fried oysters. They all tasted authentic and reminded me of fare one will find in the southern states. I particularly enjoyed one of the fried oysters.
By the way, one of the neat things about Dadeo is that the menu is so different. It's entertainment just to read it. If you happen to be a mussels or oyster fan, there is a wide range of choices. You no longer need to find an oyster bar to enjoy your ocean delicacies.
For dessert, I had a piece of key-lime pie. There were other choices, such as flambéed bananas, bread pudding (a southern favourite) and chocolate cake. But after this meal, something light seemed appropriate. The pie and a cup of coffee nicely topped off dinner.
The desserts were all $6 or $7, with the exception of the flambé, which is for two and is a tableside preparation. The cost for that is $14.
Other than the Bayou Gumbo, it was hard to find fault with anything. Undoubtedly that is why the place always seems full of customers and everyone seems to be having a good time.
Dadeo Restaurant and Bar is an excellent eating establishment with something truly different to offer. It is a must for those who consider themselves part of the Edmonton dining elite. V
Mon, Tue, Thu – Sat (11:30 am – 11 pm); Sun (12 pm – 10 pm); Closed Wed
Dadeo Restaurant and Bar
10548A Whyte Ave, 780.433.0930
More info about Dadeo’s →
Possibly related stories
New comments for this entry have been turned off and any existing ones are hidden. We apologize for any inconvenience.
