Jun. 16, 2010 - Issue #765: Whose Pride?
Revue
Devlin’s in the details
Solid chops, but a few missing pieces at Whyte Ave hot spot
UNASSUMING FAÇADE » The dark and suggestive nature of Devlin's is contained within / Renee Poirier
A recessed wooden door opens onto an intimate, black and burgundy room. Tiny chandeliers cast subdued light on the gently worn plank floor. Soft, black benches line the walls while tiny candle flames flicker to the mellow background music. The room's focal point is a rectangular bar, amply stocked with a multitude of liquors to make any number of suggestively-named cocktails.
The succinct menu is a dichotomy of small and large plates. The latter includes such fare as bison burgers and flatbread pizzas. The small plates are twists on typical appetizers—dips, pork skewers, breaded chicken—but with the inclusion of novel seasonings and the promise of artistic presentation. The idea, of course, is that one orders several small plates, thereby maximizing gustatory variety without risking overindulgence. The menu thus gives the option of ordering any three small plates for $25. Capitalizing on this opportunity, we order soul chicken, prawn toasts and the three dip bread plate.
The dishes arrive on attractive, bone-white, rectangular platters. Wafts of toasted black sesame seed emanate from the prawn toasts. These are isosceles triangles of white bread spread with finely minced prawns and fried to an attractive umber colour. Their scent is reminiscent of shrimp tempura and they are accompanied by a full-bodied dipping sauce that hints of hoisin. The bread serves its crisp topping well, its interior still tender enough to wick away dregs of sauce.
Soul chicken is a trio of chubby drumsticks lolling on a bed of cabbage-fennel slaw and flanked by two sturdy wedges of cornbread. Each drumstick is mantled by thick, immaculately crispy breading. A coy note of maple infuses this crust, coaxing out extra juice and flavour from the bronzed meat underneath. The cornbread is flecked with golden kernels of corn and fragrant with sage, evoking turkey stuffing in the best possible way. Its top crust emulates the soul chicken's breading; crunchy yet moist, savoury yet sweet.
The three dip bread plate is inconsistent. The black bean hummus sings with lime but whispers of garlic, beautifully caressing warm wedges of flatbread that, in texture, lie somewhere between naan and pita. The jalapeno goat cheese, smooth and snowy white, is distinctively tangy but the promise of pimento is not fulfilled. The bruschetta tastes primarily of onions. Tomatoes—both red and golden—are present but lack discernable flavour. Several shreds of fresh basil are present, but do little to rescue this dish. The slices of baguette are peculiar in that the texture of the outside crust is virtually indistinguishable from its interior: flabby and slightly dry. A crust of a proper baguette must crackle when broken and its interior must be tender and light.
Dessert this evening is the pumpkin trio ($7) and, like the bread-dip trio, some of its components are stronger than others. The miniature pumpkin crème brûlée is crowned by a sturdy, broiled-sugar crust, but the filling is besieged by nutmeg to the point that no other flavour is detectable. The pumpkin tart fares better. It is served warm, topped with whipped cream and a glistening blackberry. Here, the flavour of pumpkin shines, but its unfortunate vessel is a store-bought tart shell, its machine-crimped edges belying its origins. Pumpkin cake drizzled with rich butterscotch is the clear victor of this trio, striking a satisfying balance of gooey sauce and dense cake.
The culinary chops of Devlin's are clearly solid, and yet the supporting details of some dishes were overlooked. Still, it's strengths are apparent: atmosphere, presentation and clever flavours shine from this spot like so many glimpses of light in the inky cloak of night. V
Tue – Sat (5 pm – 2 am)
Devlin's
10507 - 82 Ave
780.437.7489
More info about Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge →
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