Mar. 15, 2006 - Issue #543: Skinheads Under Fire
Five courses, five wines, fine dining (whatever the name) at The Blue Pear
She avoids the term “fine dining” because she discourages the connotation of formality. She wants customers to feel comfortable, even if they have never enjoyed a five-course meal.
Jessie and her husband, Darcy, established the Blue Pear five years ago as the family restaurant for a formal meal. The small, unassuming restaurant holds a maximum of 50 people and there are no plans for expansion.
Jessie manages operations and marketing while Darcy creates distinctive, five-course menus intended to both challenge and please the palates of patrons. The goal is a relaxed atmosphere where people can experience simple, creative food of uncompromising quality without the pretension of other similarly priced restaurants.
With such an emphasis on casual simplicity, one could easily believe that the food would be merely average. Not so. The Blue Pear serves a partially set menu at a fixed price of $59; unique flavours and varied ingredients combine into delicious synergies of tastes and smells. Each week, chef Darcy carefully selects menu items that will both complement each other and transition well from one course to the next.
On a friday night, my wife and I joined a couple of friends at the Blue Pear, where our server greeted us at the front door with a warm smile.
The five-course menu presentation was simple, unfettered with ornate fonts or lavish food descriptions, consisting of a white sheet of paper with concise descriptions of each offering. We could select one of four appetizers, the soup and salad were set and the there were four options for an entrée. Our meals would finish with a choice of two desserts.
Our server had an intimate knowledge of the menu: she was not simply there to relay food orders between our table and the kitchen, but would offer us something more akin to a culinary guided tour. On her recommendation, I opted for one of the Blue Pear’s unique services, a customized wine pairing ($29) for each of the five courses.
We each ordered one of the four appetizers and shared the unexpected meld of disparate flavours. The hands-down favourite was the butternut-squash pierogi with balsamic vinegar reduction, walnuts and brown butter. The sharp, sweet balsamic vinegar perfectly complimented the earthy textures of the pierogi, while brown sugar and walnuts gave the dish a sweet, dessert-like finish. Our server selected an Italian Canella Prosecco to pair with our appetizers. This effervescent white wine had a crisp punch that was a perfect launch to our epic dining experience.
The next course was a Mediterranean tomato soup with saffron and Pernod. I was overwhelmed by the bold citrus, tomato and the aromatic herbs, but the Pernod’s distinctive anise provided the ideal bookend to each mouthful. A German Dr Loosen Riesling was our pair for the soup. The bright and fruity finish of this white wine rejuvenated my palate, allowing the rich tastes of the soup to begin again with each spoonful.
Our third course was a house salad consisting of mixed organic baby greens, cucumber, cauliflower, crisp chickpeas, lemon confit, tahini vinaigrette and sesame seeds. The fresh flavours and crunchy textures of this salad were paired with the surprising Santa Julia Viognier from Argentina. Instead of the light, clean tastes of the previous pairings, this white wine had a soft, buttery overtone that smoothed out the tart lemon confit in the salad. The server explained that this particular wine was intended not only to compliment the lemon flavours, but to match the earthy richness of the tahini.
For my entrée, I chose the wild boar loin with quinoa date pilaf, roasted root vegetables, pomegranate molasses and jus. I was expecting the boar to have a slightly gamey flavour, but was pleasantly surprised by the subtle taste of the meat and even more pleased by the sweet richness created by blending pomegranate and jus. The entrée was perfectly matched with a Californian Castle Rock Pinot Noir, a red wine with understated berry flavours that didn’t compete with the complex sapidity of the entrée.
To close the meal, I went with lemon cake topped with a sugary glaze. It was a light finish to the intense flavours and aromas of the evening. The final wine pairing was a Chilean Errazurring late-harvest Sauvignon Blanc, which rivaled the lemon cake in pure sweetness. Served chilled, this dessert wine had a distinctive apple flavour with an almost floral finish.
A constant dialogue with our server helped everyone at the table consider every element of the meal. The small portions, informed service and unhurried pace made this a dining experience rather than simply a $95 meal plus tip.
While I usually appreciate the food I eat, I rarely take the time really consider the culinary alchemy that makes a great meal great. The Blue Pear is a casual restaurant where the average diner can feel free to explore the exquisite. V
Reservations Thu - Sun until 9 pm
The Blue Pear
10643 - 123 Street
482.7178
More info about The Blue Pear →
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