Jan. 11, 2012 - Issue #847: The great indoors
Hathaway’s Diner
780.488.5989
One does not happen upon Hathaway's by accident. It is tucked away in a tiny Wellington strip mall, far from major thoroughfares and shopping districts. A fiercely loyal brigade of locals packs the comfortable booths, sipping coffee and chattering with gusto. Tall windows cast ample natural light on the black-and-white tiled floor, knick-knacks on the back counter and the swinging saloon doors at the back.
The menu features classic diner fare: an all-day breakfast, sandwiches, soups and hot entrées such as Salisbury steak and perogies. Although it is midday, I am swayed by the promise of melted cheese and order the breakfast sandwich ($7.49) and a cup of coffee ($1.99). My fellow gourmand selects a cup of tea ($1.49) and the vegetarian sandwich ($7.49). I realize that I've overlooked the most quintessential of diner fare—the milkshake—and add a strawberry shake ($4.29) to my order.
The breakfast sandwich is served on toasted brown bread and is bursting with scrambled eggs, chunks of bacon and ribbons of melted cheddar. Here, the bacon and cheddar are incorporated into the eggs, as opposed to being stacked on top, and it makes for a more cohesive sandwich. Each bite is a hit of smoky bacon, delicate egg, sharp cheese and crisp toast, a far cry from any fast-food breakfast sandwich. A fruit cup rides shotgun, and contains green and purple grapes, pineapple, strawberries and three types of melon. Although the strawberries are woefully out of season and thus a bit bland, it is refreshing to enjoy a fruit cup that consists of more than cantaloupe.
The vegetarian sandwich stuffs toasted white bread with more varieties of veggies than one thinks possible: red and green peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, red onion, cucumber and dill pickles. A slice of cheddar and a hint of mayo are a smooth canvas for the veggies' fresh flavour to shine. It is a delicious assemblage, though the sheer height of the sandwich necessitates strategic nibbles instead of large chomps, lest this garden's worth of produce come tumbling out. A small cup of mushroom soup nestles against the giant sandwich, providing earthy contrast to the vegetables' sunny essence.
The strawberry shake is rich, smooth and fragrant with strawberry purée. It is topped with a swirl of whipped cream and a maraschino cherry, and whets our appetite for dessert. Hathaway's desserts include ice cream sundaes and homemade pies. Today, offerings of the latter include apple, strawberry rhubarb, lemon meringue, and the seductively named chocolate sin. We share a piece of lemon meringue ($3.99), which tops a sturdy graham crust with vibrant, zesty lemon curd and a cloud of meringue that parts at the gentlest fork's touch. It is simultaneously tart and sweet, and is a fitting coda to the meal.
Hathaway's success is based on unpretentious preparation and fresh ingredients—attributes that do not need embellishment by gimmicks. Some sleuthing is needed to locate Hathaway's, but this contributes to, rather than detracts from, a sense of place. One feels a part of the neighbourhood and, in doing so, experiences both meanings of the word "diner." The one who dines is truly a part of the place where dining occurs. vueweekly.com comments: powered by Disqus
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