Jan. 19, 2011 - Issue #796 : Canoe Festival
History of cotton candy
Sugared floss was difficult to make and extremely time consuming, so it was considered a rather extravagant treat for the very rich. The sugar strands were thicker and more like blown glass than today's sweet pink threads. The candy could be formed into golden webs, eggs, bird's nests, castles and other artistic creations.
Making cotton candy was also dangerous. Sugar, water, juice, starch and other flavourings were boiled in large pots. When the molten concoction was ready, the confectioner had just a few seconds to pull it out of the bowl with a fork or whisk and fling it through the air. The strands would quickly cool and solidify in the air. Obviously, it was not the most sanitary of processes. Also, the chef had to be wary of burns. Early recipes warn to use plenty of oil on the skin to keep the blistering hot liquid from sticking.
In 1897 two candy makers from Nashville, William Morrison and John C Wharton, created the first candy-floss machine. It would melt the sugar, water and colouring, then use centrifugal force to push the melted mixture through a screen to create the strands of sugar. After the strands collect in a pan or bowl, they're twirled onto a paper or cardboard cone and ready to be served. In 1900 they got the patent for their invention, and in 1906 they sold it at the St Louis World's Fair for a whopping 25 cents. That was more than the price of a ride on the newly-introduced Ferris wheel, and over half the price of admission to the World's Fair itself. Still, the candy—known at the fair as "Fairy Floss"—was a huge hit.
There are conflicting stories as to who actually invented modern candy floss. The city of New Orleans claims that one of its own is the true inventor; his name was Josef Delarose. A third claimant, Thomas Patton, had also come up with a cotton candy machine. Supposedly he got a patent in 1900 as well, and introduced his product at the Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey Circus that year. The Morrison / Wharton machine was electric while others were creating similar machines that were gas and flame powered. They didn't last, so in most culinary circles, the Tennessee gentlemen are considered the fathers of cotton candy.
Candy floss has changed very little over time—only the machinery to make it has improved. There are now more colors, and it is now often sold in plastic bags instead of on paper cones. Yet the original flavour has remained constant ... as have the messy, sugary young faces and the sticky hands. V vueweekly.com comments: powered by Disqus
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