May. 24, 2006 - Issue #553: The Devil’s Picnic
Jack and Grill come together to create lamb perfection
Regular diners contribute to the restaurant’s longstanding reputation as one of Edmonton’s finest food establishments. And they make people like me curious enough to go.
Great reputations can lead to great expectations, of course, and things that would be minor irritations elsewhere end up colouring an entire evening. Despite truly excellent food, perhaps my expectations for the Jack’s Grill experience were too high.
Though my partner and I had made reservations for two at Jack’s Grill, when we arrived, we were seated at a booth-like table for four. Two chairs and a bench was an odd arrangement for a couple.
Moreover, not only were there several two-seaters that remained unoccupied during our stay, but also I had to scootch across a padded bench in a skirt. It was awkward at best. The only reasonable explanation I could come up with was that regular diners who did not show up that night sit at those tables. Regardless, such an error in customer service didn’t sit well with me.
The restaurant was a genuinely pleasant space, almost hidden in a southside strip mall. Neighbours include Cristall’s Wine Market and Sunterra Foods, so decadent pleasures are not out of place. The interior was artful and bright, playful yet tasteful. The evening’s sunshine made its way inside through the full windows that look out to the patio.
After examining the menu, which included Cornish game hen, shoulder of boar and Alberta AAA Sterling Silver beef, I ordered the citrus-rubbed lamb loin ($32) and my partner ordered the veal rack chop with morel mushroom sauce ($39). After confirming that the rumoured-to-be-divine crème brûlée was still on the dessert menu, we decided to share a single appetizer and leave extra room for dessert. We started with the almond-crusted Brie served with asparagus and greens ($13).
With entrees selected, we were ready to choose our wine. We wanted to revisit a wine we enjoyed during a recent trip to France and ordered a Chateauneuf du Pape ($54), the only Rhône wine on the menu. Alas and alack! After a few minutes, the waiter returned to explain that the bottle we ordered was no longer available, but the 2000 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape ($69) was.
What was a waiter to do in such a situation? I would have liked a recommendation to suit the meal and our wallets. We probably should have requested exactly that, but instead we agreed to the pricier bottle.
Thankfully, we didn’t have to wait long to begin experiencing the food that has made Jack’s Grill famous. The almond-crusted baked Brie was simple and delicious. Cranberries, asparagus and salad in a vodka citrus dressing made the appetizer complete.
Only moments after we polished off the Brie, my citrus-rubbed lamb arrived—perfection. I’m used to chewier lamb pieces in stews and curries, so the tenderness of the loin surprised and impressed me. The lamb was served with goat cheese potato cakes, lentil salad, green beans and a skiff of tomato curry sauce, which all worked extraordinarily well together.
My partner was very enthusiastic—thrilled, even—about the truffle-salted pommes frites that accompanied the veal. Adding to the mushroom delight was the morel sauce, a rare and delectable find. The Alberta veal itself was flawlessly grilled. Jack’s Grill can brag about this dish.
The dark red wine opened with a plumy and spicy nose. It was completely smooth and silky on the tongue, but very intense and complex. The long finish was fruity with light tannins. I loved that it tasted as bold as a big red but wasn’t as dry. It was almost as good as the France-filled memory. In the end, as a complement to our entrées, the wine probably worked better with the citrus lamb than the mushroom veal.
Thanks to our clever pre-planning, we had room to order the wild blueberry crème brûlée ($8) and Jack's bread pudding with caramelized rum sauce and whipped cream ($8). Vanilla bean specks could move Jack’s crème brûlée to anyone’s best dessert list. The blueberries were an aberration, but not an abomination. Unfortunately, the bread pudding was served too hot and my tongue was still suffering first-bite burns the next morning. Once it cooled, the pudding was very sweet and laced with lots of rum. It would have been great with an espresso.
Our total for the evening including wine with tax and tip was $205. While not unreasonable for fine dining, for the money I would have expected a thoughtful wine recommendation when our first choice was unavailable. And really, an appropriate table is necessary, especially if I’ve made reservations and I can see that one is clearly available. The food (notably the lamb) was the evening’s highlight. Only these other details left a bad taste in my mouth.
Still, there’s no denying the power of an excellent reputation. Jack’s Grill has fans for a reason and I’m sure they’ll return to enjoy the food. V
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