Jun. 30, 2010 - Issue #767: The Bestest of Edmonton 2010
Revue
Keep the Homefire burning
Protein-centric West End restaurant is good prairie-style eating
The Prairies are defined by space. Expansive, mind-bending space that sprawls in all directions; a vast causeway for omnipresent winds that chase motes of dust and crinkly seeds to oblivion. Poplar bluffs are islands in a sea of undulating grass and grain. The distant horizon blurs together sky and soil. The spatial extent of the prairies is sharpened by a conspicuous absence of megafauna, namely, the plains bison. Indeed, at the height of systematic bison slaughter in the late 1800s, between 2000 and 100 000 of these beasts were killed daily. The species has since recovered from the precipice of extinction, thriving in game farms, but no longer roams across the prairies in appreciable numbers.
Bison meat enjoyed a renaissance in the 1990s, as diners gained new appreciation for its robust flavour and remarkably low fat content. Bison now appears on select menus, usually as a novelty. At one eatery, however, it is the central focus. Here, in the vaguely desolate frontier of the West End is the Homefire Grill, which touts itself as contemporary Canadian cuisine.
The dining room is easily one of the most beautiful in the city. The olive, taupe and burgundy walls are sparingly adorned with hammered metal petroglyphs. An open kitchen reveals a focused squadron of chefs and a sizeable dome-shaped wood-fired oven. The center of the dining room is dominated by a fireplace—no ordinary fireplace, but a raised platform that cradles a circle of smooth rocks licked by russet flames. It resembles a campfire made on pebbly ground, and casts gentle light on the surrounding booths. The room is packed, and yet volume of multiple conversations is no more than a murmur.
Appetizers include such standards as spinach salad and bruschetta, as well as a Canadian archetype: bannock ($7). Intrigued, we order a basket. It arrives promptly, the tawny wedges radiating heat from the oven. This quick-bread is reminiscent of a dense scone, and is served with whipped maple butter. The butter melts quickly, the sweet whisper of maple an ideal companion to the dense yet fluffy bannock. The dish is humble but refined, its simplicity well-suited to both an upscale dining room and a lakeside campsite on the chilly boundary between summer and autumn.
Entrées are protein-centric, featuring several incarnations of bison, chicken and salmon. The bison feature changes daily, and tonight it is ribeye steak crowned with crab legs ($32). After a reasonable wait, the steak appears at our table. The six-ounce slab is attractively hatched with grill marks and accompanied by a quartet of gangly crab legs. The roles of vegetable and starch are filled by squash, red pepper, broccolini and mashed potatoes. The golden wedge of squash is buttery and tender, the red pepper assertive and crisp. The broccolini, a slender sibling to broccoli, is peppery and toothsome. The mashed potatoes are delightfully naughty, an ivory purée studded with bacon. The bison itself is fine-grained and delicately marbled. Cooked rare, it easily surrenders to the oversized steak knife. The crab legs, while delicious when dipped in drawn garlic butter, are unwieldy and rather messy to disassemble. They are superfluous, for the full-bodied bison succeeds on its own.
Pork tenderloin ($19) also stands out. Three thick medallions are enrobed in a glossy maple glaze that permeates and accentuates. Pork, perhaps more than any other meat, responds to sweetness, be it in the guise of fruit, honey or aforementioned maple. The same vegetables and bacon mashed spuds ride shotgun, but are equally suited to their porcine compatriot.
Desserts have an international slant, including various tortes and crème brûlée. I am drawn to the anomalous sweet potato cheesecake ($9), a dish that evokes the American Deep South. My friend selects the island delight, opting for the miniature size ($4) in wake of the generously portioned entrées. The cheesecake presents an auburn wedge that emulates smoother, milder pumpkin pie minus the cinnamon and nutmeg. The island delight includes slices of banana, pineapple and Saskatoon berries crowned with vanilla bean ice cream and anointed with chocolate and caramel drizzle. Both desserts are tasty yet rich, and I am forced to surrender without finishing. I rest in the glow of the indoor campfire, regarding the hypnotic flames with serenity and satiation, imagining an inky, starry prairie sky. V
Mon – Sat (11 am – 10 pm) Sun (10:30 am – 10 pm)
Homefire Grill
18210 - 100 Ave
780.489.8086
More info about Homefire Grill →
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