Dec. 05, 2006 - Issue #581: Root Down

Let the lunch Shine in, face it with a grin

When I walked into Shine, my first thought was that I had entered the set of a stage play. That wouldn’t be too outrageous a conclusion, really, as the tiny eatery is tucked into the Citadel Theatre building, between the Foote Theatre School and Canada Place.

The interior jumped out at me, with its strong tempura colours of mustard, red and green atop a bare concrete floor. Bright sun streamed through the windows that made up the front wall, despite the fact that it was bitingly cold outside, and I wondered if this was how the bistro got its name.

I took in the slogan painted on the wall to my left: Mmm good eats, and the hand-lettered poster declaring Welcome to Shine on my right. Huddled over a table in the corner, three men were discussing politics, one sporting a turtleneck sweater and fringed scarf. The atmosphere felt momentarily surreal, the way a spotlighted stage feels charged with electricity before the play begins.

But the spell broke as my lunchmate and I approached the counter and stepped into a lineup of business people waiting for their orders. My pal had been a regular customer when she worked at Canada Place, and knew coworkers who ate here every day.

Surveying the large menu board hanging behind the chef’s head, I could see why. The fare at Shine may just be less expensive than bringing your own. A bowl of soup, made fresh, cost $3.50; salads and sandwiches ranged from $2.25 to $5.95. The priciest item on the menu was the 8" pizza for $7.50, advertised as being ready in 8 minutes or less. Shine Bistro clearly catered to the half-hour lunches of the wage-earning crowd.

Lest the fare be dismissed as routine, the menu board advertised slightly more exotic options, such as the capicollo and artichoke pizza and a mandarin spinach salad. A different special is featured every day, from Tuesday’s quiche to Friday’s bacon cheeseburger. A choice of “Improve Your Day” cookies caught my eye: I would definitely have to try one.

My companion knew exactly what she wanted, so I let her order while I decided on my meal. On the way in, I had noticed a sign advertising an ATM inside, and wondered why that would be important. I discovered that Shine Bistro takes only cash, so the ATM came in handy.

I ordered the Toasted Lotus Shinewich ($4.95) and added a bowl of soup to make it a combo for an additional $1.99. While I told the cashier my order, the chef—who is also the owner—set immediately to work. Reviewing the list of drinks, I skipped over coffee, tea, canned pop and flavoured water to settle on the chai latté ($2.50).

We paid and took a numbered card to place on our table so the server could find us when our meals were ready. By the time we settled at a table in the sun, our meals were being delivered by an older man whose apron bore the same surname as the chef’s. Ever the gentleman, he poured me a glass of water from a pitcher on the counter.

While my soup was cooling, I bit into the warm, multigrain bread of my Shinewich, savouring the mixed textures of smooth avocado, juicy tomato and crunchy bacon on my tongue. The sandwich put a yummy twist on the classic BLT by substituting bean sprouts for lettuce, and I was pleasantly surprised with the tasty balance. I had asked for the sandwich wrapped to go, but I ate the whole thing before I could stop myself.

Meanwhile, my chum was sorting through her order of pasta primavera ($2.75), carefully matching chilled penne pasta to bits of sun-dried tomato, celery, artichoke and almonds, then popping the combination into her mouth and sighing contentedly.

“The sundried tomato makes this salad divine,” she confided, “and I wish I had the recipe for the dressing.”

The soup had cooled enough to eat, so I dug in. I tasted bits of sweet corn in each bite. My toasted sandwich and hearty, homemade soup was the perfect cold weather meal. All I needed was the smell of wet winter boots and I would be back in my childhood again, sitting at the table in my mom’s sunny kitchen after playing in the snow.

Of course, my mom never served lattés with lunch. I sipped my drink, which proved to be a light froth of black tea and milk, with what may have been nutmeg and/or ginger. I nursed the latté as long as I could. I was reluctant to leave this warm oasis of colour and go back through the cold to my gray productivity pod.

As the latté cooled, the spices took a back seat to the sweeter taste of the milk. It was as good cooling off as it was when freshly served, and I made a mental note to come back and order it again one afternoon. After 2 pm, lunch service is over, and all hot drinks are discount-priced. By 3:30 pm, Shine is closed. Breakfast is served from 7-10:30 am.

Full and content, we bundled back into our coats and returned to the counter to ask for a catering menu, which offers the same selection as the menu board, including breakfast.

Of course, we remembered the final touch of a couple of those tempting cookies. Mine was slightly crunchy on the outside, with a softer, darker, cocoa-flavoured core. The menu board had it right. Munching on a yummy cookie did indeed Improve My Day. Shine also made a lasting impression: I’ve returned twice for the latté and cookies. V

 

Mon - Fri to 3:30 pm
Shine Bistro and Catering
9828 Shoctor Alley (101A Avenue)
414.6347

More info about Shine Bistro and Catering →

New comments for this entry have been turned off and any existing ones are hidden. We apologize for any inconvenience.