Dec. 07, 2005 - Issue #529: Charles Burns
Lux and tales
Downtown's Lux Steakhouse and Bar a great place to chat it up with friends over some fine cuts of meat
Each day, as the masses flee from the downtown core, an oasis of modernity remains, a place so functional and so fashionable that it’s almost embarrassing for a rugged young southern Alberta gentlemen like myself to enter. But salvaging the reckless, extreme fashion and trendiness that permeates the Lux Steakhouse and Bar is an easy-on-the-eye décor of darkly stained woods, vaulted ceilings, and friendly, easygoing service that seems almost superimposed in such a fine dining atmosphere.
Our comically romantic, all-gentlemen dinner naturally started with some fine booze. By suggestion of our server, we begin with a bottle of Wolf Blass Yellow Label ($32), a hearty and dry Australian Cabernet Sauvignon; its simple berry flavours and medium tannins satisfied our longing for a nice, warm wine buzz. After some small talk—and having exchanged a few glances from an unusually attractive hostess—we unanimously agreed on an appetizer. The conventionally unconventional choice of the Undecided Platter ($27) consists of spring rolls, “pile of bones,” calamari, and a box of fries. The pile of bones was definitely the highlight of this dish, being little morsels of beef that resembled dry ribs but were shockingly tender and seasoned in a way that made the meat melt in your mouth. The calamari, to be honest, was chewy and a little over-battered, and the fries, well... they were just fries, and in a joint like Lux, that’s kind of a letdown.
The Lux dialectic has a tendency to blend the refineries and pleasantries of bourgeois life in a comedic dance with some of the econo-classics of post-modern man like fries and macaroni and cheese. Since all entrées are served à la carte, the sides are dished separately and are delivered in a manner appropriate for communal style dining, similar to Asian food. The sharing concept really contributed to the dining experience, allowing everyone to sample. My side of choice was the Truffled Lobster ‘Mac and Cheese’ ($12); it was exactly what it sounds like, and was quite tasty, too—though the lobster, like the earlier calamari, was a bit chewy.
But it was the entrees that were the life of Lux’s party. My 12-ounce Espresso-rubbed Ribeye ($33) was delicious; the meat was tender and rich, and the dry-aged beef was clearly of a fine quality. The espresso rub is more of an aromatic preparation than a real ingredient in the dish, and any coffee flavours that are carried into the meat are transferred subtly. My brother Eric settled on the inhumane choice of the 14-ounce Veal T-bone ($35), which was superb. The large cut of tender veal seemed to be seasoned by the hand of god himself, and Eric didn’t share much. The final member of our party decided on the grilled salmon ($25), which was also something to write home about, served with a fine crust of dijon and horseradish and flanked by scrumptious leekonnaise potatoes, veggies, and dill oil.
As we finished our meals, we contemplated desserts over another bottle of Wolf Blass; the place was quite busy for a downtown Monday night, and apparently they do quite well during lunch hours as well. Their location in Commerce place makes Lux and easy choice for the suits of downtown E-town. Having been over-satisfied already, we all agreed that dessert would not be a good idea, though the menu boasted some interesting offerings. We ordered a round of coffee and Baileys ($6.50) and wandered into the cold, dead Edmonton night with three buzzes, three happy bellies, and $200 lighter. V
Lux Steakhouse and Bar
10155-102 St • 424-0400
More info about Lux Steakhouse and Bar →
New comments for this entry have been turned off and any existing ones are hidden. We apologize for any inconvenience.
