Jan. 18, 2012 - Issue #848: City of champions

Mediterranean fare

Ousia melds flavours of Greece, Turkey and North Africa

10846 - 82 Ave
780.761.1910

When Matthew Lakis decided to open a Mediterranean restaurant on Whyte Avenue near 109 Street, he had no intention of it being another fast-food joint offering up souvlaki and pitas to the late-night crowd. Instead, the young restaurateur is introducing Edmonton to the sophisticated side of Mediterranean cuisine with a designer menu showcasing flavour-fusion inspired by countries and cultures throughout the region.

Opening a restaurant that showcased his background and upbringing has always been a dream. Lakis has ethnic ties to Cyprus, an island with culinary influences from neighbours such as Greece, Turkey, Egypt and Syria. "I grew up in South Africa, and the school I went to had kids from Greece, Portugal, Spain, and from the Middle East," explains Lakis. "I loved being exposed to that diversity of food as a kid, and my family started adopting some of their cooking."

He moved to Canada at the age of 12, and by high school he was a dishwasher working for Chef Darcy Radies in one of Edmonton's celebrated kitchens, the Blue Pear. He worked his way up in the kitchen, and the early exposure to the local gourmet food scene paved the way to Lakis's enrolment in the culinary arts program at NAIT. "Having one-on-one experience with someone like Darcy opened my eyes to what can be done," explains Lakis. "He allows and encourages you to bring creativity to the workplace."

Lakis is eager to be the first to expose people in Edmonton to a new type of cuisine. "There are Greek, Turkish and North African restaurants in Edmonton, but there is no one crossing borders with flavours like this." The sophisticated menu is sure to change the perception of Mediterranean food; the take-away souvlaki has been ditched for a dinner menu which features Moroccan-spiced chicken kebab, slow-braised lamb, and wild mushroom and mascarpone risotto.

The starter dishes are inspired by a traditional tapas experience. "I went to Barcelona last year and I just love how they eat: little plates are packed with so many flavours, colours and complex textures to sample," explains Lakis.  The feta phyllo parcel, considered a signature dish, combines feta in a phyllo pastry—deep fried so the cheese becomes soft and oozing—with Turkish honey and honeycomb. The Ouzo-cured gravlax, a Mediterranean twist on a Scandinavian salmon dish, is paired with candy beets, basil goat cheese mousse, and lemon gelée. 

"There is so much that you can do with this type of food that people haven't experienced in Edmonton," explains Lakis. Even the Sunday brunch is designed to offer something new.  "We have a lamb and chorizo hash, which is a very hearty dish for the winter months. Our crêpe features macerated fruit from the weekend farmers' markets served with mascarpone and brandy crème anglaise."

While the inspiration for the menu has an international flavour, the journey began with influences from his family. "When we opened, my mother was back in the kitchen with an apron on, showing everyone how to properly make desserts," laughs Lakis. "She loves the restaurant; she's probably in here every day." The result is a gourmet Mediterranean fusion of flavours that is unique to Ousia, and mother-approved. vueweekly.com comments: powered by Disqus