Oct. 20, 2010 - Issue #783 : Falklands

Revue

Pie in the sky

South-side pizza joint makes take-out interesting

Take-out food follows one of two scenarios. At its best, it is both a satisfying meal made with diligence as well as a welcome respite from an evening of cooking. At its worst, take-out is a greasy confusion of processed ingredients, manhandled and gobbled in haste. Hamburgers, fried chicken and pizza comprise a trio of dishes well-suited to swift preparation. Of this triad, the first two have the propensity to occupy the second category of take-out food and, as such, are the bane of dietitians and cardiologists. Pizza, conversely, occupies a wider spectrum of quality, given that take-out pizza is available both from franchises and independently owned outlets. Speed, quality and independently owned pizzerias are thus the triumvirate of take-out, and these qualities are embodied by the stalwart, south-side Pizzeria Prego.

Pizzeria Prego occupies the northernmost stall in Lendrum Place Mall, sharing the strip with, among others, an upscale grocery store, a florist and a weight-loss clinic. Several tables and chairs which line the long, rectangular room are clearly intended for dine-in customers, though take-out comprises the bulk of Prego's business. Notably, Prego is the only pizzeria in the Capital Region to offer gluten-free pizzas. Kinnikinnick Bakery, Edmonton's eminent gluten-free bakery, produces Prego's crusts and the gluten-free option is available for virtually everything on Prego's menu.

Forty types of pizza span three broad categories. Classical pizza includes quintessentially North American varieties: pepperoni, Hawaiian and so forth. Gourmet pizza evokes pasta dishes such as chicken Alfredo and Neptune (ie, seafood). Natural pizza is a diverse category, with leanings toward vegetarian options; among them is the aptly named Constant Gardener. All are available in four sizes, ranging from the eight-inch mini to the sizeable, 14 inch large. I select an eight-inch pizza from each category, wishing for a broad sample of Prego's wares and anticipating leftovers for late-night snacking.

Quattro cheese ($11.49 mini) presents a combination of mozzarella, feta, cheddar and parmesan cheeses atop a judicious layer of herbed tomato sauce. The underlying crust is tender with crisp edges, and possesses the integrity to carry its toppings without sagging in the middle. Mozzarella and parmesan are natural, complementary partners, and the feta imparts a hint of salt to balance the mozzarella's subtle, inherent sweetness. I question the inclusion of cheddar, though. Sharp cheddar is a distinctly delicious entity unto itself, but on pizza it tends to overpower milder cheeses.

Pepperoni, mushroom and cheese pizza ($8.49 mini) include slices of earthy, fresh mushrooms and rounds of mild pepperoni veiled in mozzarella and cheddar. Here, cheddar is ideally suited to its strongly flavoured compatriots. Of interest, though not directly relevant to this particular pizza's piquant essence, is that pepperoni is not Italian. Its name stems from the Italian word for a small hot pepper, peperone, and it is an American interpretation of hot Italian salami known as salame piccante.

Basilia ($8.99 mini) shuns tomato sauce in favour of chunky pesto comprised of fresh basil, olive oil, aromatic garlic, crisp pine nuts and aged parmesan. An additional crown of cheese accentuates these ingredients, the combination of which cries out for another bite and then another. It's an admirable creation, and the clear favourite of my chosen three.

It is a supreme challenge to create a satisfying take-out meal with both speed and care, but Pizzeria Prego easily succeeds. One may quibble over certain combinations of ingredients, but the care and attention bestowed on Prego's dishes is apparent. Prego's delectable pizzas are a welcome respite from cooking and a reminder that, in a sea of dubious concoctions slapped together in fast food franchises, take-out food may indeed be synonymous with quality. V

Mon – Sat (11 am – 9 pm); Sun (12 pm – 8 pm)
Pizzeria Prego
5860 - 111 St, 780.439.7734
 

More info about Pizzeria Prego →

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