Jul. 21, 2010 - Issue #770: Draw It Yourself

Revue

Pleasant memories

El Rancho's authenticity is largely successful

Like an itch that needs to be scratched, food cravings need to be met. My latest longing was for the flavours of Mexico, which I last tasted a couple months ago during my trip to the Mayan Riviera. Deciding it was time break our fast, my company and I ventured north to El Rancho Spanish Restaurant, which features Salvadorean and Mexican cuisine.

We arrived on a warm, sunny Sunday evening and entered to find a casual setting inside. The interior of the restaurant was bright and spotless with coral coloured walls. A few tables were full with families casually enjoying their meals. I suspect the warm weather had lured some clientele away for the night, however there was a steady stream of locals popping in to pick up food to take out as we ate.

As we examined the menu one element stood out immediately; for meat-filled dishes El Rancho gives diners the choice of chicken or tofu. Personally, I felt a little let down not seeing more pork-centric items, as this often features big in authentic Mexican cuisine. However, on the bright side, this meant that I could bring my vegetarian friends here at a later date.

Every meal dining out starts with high aspirations, so we decided to begin with the Salvadorean specialty, pupusas ($2.50 each). For the unversed, pupusas are stuffed corn tortillas, fried crisp and typically served with pickled cabbage and salsa on top. In many ways they are similar to green onion cakes (crisp on the outside, doughy centre) but the molten stuffing steps it up a notch. The pupusas we ordered were stuffed with mozzarella cheese, beans and seasoned pork. They arrived within minutes, but after diving into them I wish they had cooked for a minute or two longer. The outside of the pupusas only had a little color on them from being on the grill, and as we bit into them they still retained some of their uncooked, doughy consistency. The filling was moist, cheesy and flavorful but would have been showcased better had the pupusas been cooked a little longer. A little discouraged but still hopeful we forged on to the next appetizer.

Up next was an order of the tamales ($4.25 for two). These doughy delights can be difficult to get right as they often dry out. However, this was not the case at El Rancho as their tamales were perfection rolled up in a banana leaf. Unwrapping the package unveiled super-moist, fragrant dough that was filled with tender chicken, potatoes and garbanzo beans. To offset the softness of the tamales, the ubiquitous tomato sauce and pickled cabbage was provided, which proved the crunchy accompaniment that took these tamales to next level. If I lived in El Rancho's neighbourhood, I would be here eating these for lunch all the time, as there is no doubt that two of theses ample tamales would fill me up at a bargain rate.

Some dishes are bound to be successful as they feature a variety of textural and flavour components. El Rancho's camarones a la plancha ($10.95) was a great example of this. The smoky flavours of the grill enhanced the spicy rub on the outside of the shrimp. These tender morsels packed punch when it came to heat, so thankfully the dish was balanced out with slices of creamy avocado and sweet mango salsa. The firm but juicy shrimp were served on a bed of fresh lettuce, which added a delightful crunchiness. This dish covered all the great elements: salty, sweet, spicy, smoky, creamy and crunchy.
The entrée that brought me back to Mexico was the enchilada Mexicana ($11.95). Two corn tortillas were filled with shredded chicken, and smothered with mole sauce. The mole sauce was one of the best I have tasted in the city and its rich smoky, nutty flavour reminded me of the mole sauce I tasted in the Mayan Riviera. Like the mole I had in Mexico, this sauce had a pleasant thick consistency that allowed you to coat every tasty scrap of chicken and tortilla. The enchiladas were served with rice and salad, and proved to be a great finale for an excellent dinner.

Although the pupusas were not the best I've eaten, all the other dishes more than made up for their small flaws. I would gladly make the trek north to enjoy El Rancho's budget- and family-friendly restaurant. It will help fend off those cravings until I can return to Mexico. V

WED – SUN (11:30 AM – 8 PM)
El Rancho Spanish Restaurant
11810 - 87 St, 780.471.4930 

More info about El Rancho S Restaurant →

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