Aug. 18, 2010 - Issue #774: Blues Fest
To the Pint
Quality control
Classic pilsner, but far from the pinnacle
The Czechs (more accurately, the Bohemians) invented pilsner, but it didn't take long for the Germans to grab hold of the style and make it their own. Today there are two distinct versions of authentic pilsners—Czech and German. Both showcase a refreshing, hoppy pale lager quality that is unmatched by any other beer style. However, German pils are drier, sharper and crisper than Czech Pilsners.
In Canada we can experience Czech pilsners through Pilsner-Urquell, Czechvar and Paddock Wood Czech Mate, among others. German pils are rarer. Most of the classic versions of the style are not available here.
One mass-produced version sold here is Warsteiner. You have likely heard of it. It is not infrequently named as an example of the German pils style. Certain pubs enjoy serving it in one litre steins. It is Germany's largest independently owned brewery, and it has been making beer since 1753, which anyone would have to admit is impressive.
As it works out it is one of those beers that I generally overlook. I don't think poorly of it, but there usually is something else on offer that more easily attracts my attention. But I decided recently to make a point to consciously experience Warsteiner and spend some time really tasting it.
It is a perfect medium straw colour, brilliantly bright and clear with a bubbly white head. It is quite effervescent in the glass. The aroma is a textbook example of German pils—grassy hop and soft hay-like malt aromas. Its first impression upon sipping is a soft, earthy sweetness which is followed by a sharp, grassy hop bitterness. It possesses a noticeable, drying-hop linger.
I also pick up some astringency and a metallic end note that really shouldn't be present. My gut tells me these might be due to the use of newer, higher extract (and cheaper) hop varieties rather than traditional noble hops, but I have no evidence for this theory.
It is not an unpleasant beer, but I find it lighter and less crisp than I would hope for in a German pils. It makes me wonder if 50 years ago Warsteiner might have been a bang-on version of the style, but it has been downgraded in recent years to appeal to a mass market. In all, it seems somewhat overrated and exaggerated in its claims to be a natural descendent of this noble style. V
Warsteiner Premium Verum
Warsteiner Brauerei,
Warstein Germany
$15.25 for a six pack
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