Dec. 02, 2009 - Issue #737: Climate Crossroads

Red Star Pub: Much more than pub grub

Red Star Pub's menu fresh and original

With a focus on drinking, food is often an afterthought in many pubs: images of frozen bags filled with food destined for the deep fryer come to mind. However, some pubs in Edmonton are making the leap to fresh and original offerings, such as Red Star Pub, located on Jasper Avenue.

The dark interior, tightly clustered seating and relaxed atmosphere remind you that first and foremost, Red Star Pub is, well a pub. Drinks come first, and food is there if needed. With that in mind, we ordered a pint of Guinness and Stella Artois to start with ($7 each). I had hoped for a bigger range of beers available on tap, but was willing to overlook it since the brews were expertly poured in their proper glasses.

Our first clue that we were in for pub grub of a different type was the compact, yet confident, menu, featuring only 14 items with strong reference to Italian cuisine. The range of items was well thought out for the pub atmosphere, from little nibbles to go with drinks like rosemary roasted pecans ($5) and spicy snap peas with roasted almond lemon gremolata ($6) to meal-sized dishes like roasted chicken baguette with shaved radish and salsa verde ($12) and housemade lamb sausage baked pasta ($27 for two or three).

Tough decisions were required, but we managed to settle on three items to share. Up first was the wild mushroom chicken polpette ($11) that arrived within minutes, hot from the kitchen. Seven polpettes, or meatballs, were accompanied by a black truffle crème fraiche. Drizzled with olive oil, the polpettes were moist and juicy to the bite. When dipped in the truffle-speckled crème fraiche, the earthy mushroom flavours were brought to the forefront. Simple, yet well executed.

As the delicious sounding housemade lamb sausage pasta was unfortunately not available, we settled on the vegetarian pasta option: pappardelle with hearts of palm, pesto and roasted pine nuts ($14). Our attentive waitress arrived with our one order of pasta, conveniently split into two bowls. Looking at both bowls together, the portion size would be more than ample for a filling meal individually. The pappardelle pasta was cooked to perfection, its texture and flavour had us fooled for homemade, until we asked the waitress for clarification. The herb pesto was full of fresh flavours, especially notes of citrus, and was wisely not overdressed on the pasta.

Last to arrive was an order of Red Star's mini burgers ($12). A staple item in many pubs around the city, we were looking to see how theirs compared. Three mini burgers were accompanied with a bacon apple relish and applewood smoked cheddar cheese. The burgers were moist, the bread fresh and the condiments flawless. The relish was a stroke of pure genius, the sweetness of the apple complimented with the smoky, salty bacon. Each bite was just as good as the description sounds. These three little burgers were better than burgers I've had in some dedicated burger joints around town, and had us wishing for more.

What really stood out about Red Star Pub is that for the same price as some chicken wings or nachos elsewhere, I received outstanding food. When one needs to soak up the alcohol with food, why should flavour sacrifices be made? V

Tue – Thu (5 pm – 2 am); Fri (4 pm – 2 am); Sat (7 pm – 2 am)
Red Star Pub
10534 Jasper Ave, 780.428.0825

More info about Red Star Pub →

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