Oct. 06, 2004 - Issue #468: Black Rider
Tandoori mercies
Despite a rocky start, Khazana's sumptuous décor and large buffet soon cast a spell
We got to Khazana at around 1 p.m., which we assumed would help us avoid the busy lunchtime rush. Not so. There were still plenty of people, and, frustratingly enough, absolutely nobody waiting to greet us at the door. We looked around, confused, not sure what we were supposed to do. We couldn't see a please-wait-to-be-seated sign, so we stood around awkwardly, feeling distinctly out of place. We waited a good four or five minutes before anyone even acknowledged that we were in the building, and were only finally noticed, along with another frustrated couple, when we gradually inched our way into the main area of the restaurant. When a server showed up, she told us to wait while they prepared a table, and then announced that we were blocking traffic and to please move out of the way. We were floored. We and the other couple waiting were both obviously less than pleased at being chastised for something that wasn't our fault. We didn't want to be in the middle of the hallway, after all. If someone had greeted us at the entryway, we wouldn't be so rudely blocking the traffic further into the dining area. If first impressions count for much, Khazana was off to a rocky start.
Once we were seated at our large table for two, we got our first real feel for the beauty of the restaurant's décor. It was absolutely stunning. Rustic wooden posts, half a mountain's worth of gorgeous stonework, and deep, earthy colours and textures. Several fireplaces added an extra dimension of warmth to the already warm, rich lighting, while the tables were thick, solid, chunky wooden objets d'art in and of themselves. The better part of a forest must have died at the hands of Khazana's interior designer.
We arrived knowing exactly what we wanted: the lunch buffet ($10.95 each). The selection was quite extensive, with a healthy mix of vegetarian and meaty dishes. The mutter paneer (a mix of green peas and Indian cottage cheese cubes cooked in a thick, spicy sauce) was more creamy than I'm used to, though it was exceptionally good, with the cheese both firm and tender. The aloo gobhi (potatoes and cauliflower, with various spices) was equally enjoyable; though I ran into a potato or two that was a bit undercooked, this is hardly unexpected. My wife loved both the beef korma, which was slightly sweet, and the butter chicken, whose chicken appeared to have been grilled before its introduction to the thick, buttery sauce. The only real downer of the meal was the dry, limp naan bread, which was at least still chewy on the inside. We washed the meal down with a pop ($2.50 each), and went off to check out the dessert table.
There were plenty of dessert options, though we were both already too full to take full advantage of more than one each. Fresh fruit, carrot cake and a wide assortment of sweet delights filled the serving table, though it was looking a bit picked-over by the time we got to it. I'm a sucker for a good slice of carrot cake, and Khazana's version was moist, rich and not oversweet. My wife, intrigued by the creamy looking rice pudding (officially known as kheer zaikedar, a blend of basmati rice, sultanas, flaked almonds and cream, served chilled), took a bowl full back to the table, then promptly returned for more.
In all, the Khazana experience isn't a cheap one, although the buffet lunch is quite the deal, all things considered. Our total, before tax and tip, was just shy of $27, which, given the prices on the dinner menu, was fairly reasonable. While it's a bit too pricy to make a trip every day, it's by no means a bad value. Khazana is the kind of place to take your significant other for a nice anniversary lunch or a romantic birthday dinner, and is about as far as you can get from a generic, bland chain eatery. The quality of the food was way above average, and aside from the initial encounter near the front, the service was fast, friendly and helpful. We'll certainly be back. V
Khazana
10177 107 St • 702-0330
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