Jan. 25, 2006 - Issue #536: Bebop Cortez
Tempted in a Teacup
Great food, drink and atmosphere: The Tea Place is steeped in wonder
1. Prices shall be lower, “service” shall not exist and thou shalt shop there anyway.
2. Parking spots shall far exceed the demand, but thou shalt never find a space close to the doors.
3. For each odious crop of multinational corporate fungus, there shall be at least one independently-owned flower that struggles to thrive.
The Tea Place is one such bloom, clinging precariously to the concrete soil of Christy’s Corner in the city’s wintry northeast. I dared its doors and was met with soothing tone-on-tone sage walls that soared high above the single large room. The cool, comfortable space was decorated with bamboo stalks and tiny trees. Its walls displayed eclectic local art for sale and botanical drawings of tea leaves. Dark wood tables and darker leather couches were scattered around the space; spots beside the cheerful gas fireplace were popular in the half-full bistro.
I passed goods for sale on my way to the counter, forgoing a new tea ball or exquisitely painted china tea set in favour of sampling their fare. In most places like this, menu items are kept in a cooler to be nuked on demand. I could see a deli meat slicer and a cold table, so I had high hopes for the coming meal. But I was distracted.
The friendly guy behind the counter was patient. He had to be. He stood beside a “sniffing bar” of nearly a hundred small pots of tea leaves. Each was labeled with an intriguing name, exotic ingredients and countries of origin from the world over. Lining the wall beside the till were shelves that wouldn’t have been out of place in a medieval apothecary. Rows of glass jars were filled with dried herbs, seed pods and roots to immerse in boiling water and release a fantasia of scent and flavour.
My wife settled on a premium Ceylon black caramel cream, while I was enchanted by the aroma of Brazilian Yerba Maté peach and ginger ($2 each) before I turned my attention to the small but varied menu. We each chose a soup and sandwich, the three-cheese melt ($5.60) for her and a chicken ranch ($7.25) for me. I asked for an enormous cinnamon bun ($2) for dessert and we took our individual tea presses to a table next to the Internet kiosk.
The full-length front windows gazed out at the requisite parking lot and we could see the skyline-dominating arch of the movie theatre’s sign from anywhere in the restaurant. That vision was thankfully clouded, however, by the sweet steam that rose from our steeping teas. Pressing our loose leaves through the richly-coloured liquid became a sensual experience and I inhaled deeply as I poured. My Yerba Maté was delicately wrought, with peach and ginger spices sparkling briefly on my palate as the tea warmed me all the way through. My wife’s selection had more staying power. Her flavours of sweet caramel and silky cream remained on her tongue long after the briefest taste.
Our soups arrived soon after our first sips of tea. The good-sized bowls were filled with a savoury, salty broth loaded with recognizable pieces of chicken plus white and wild rice (the only choice of soup available). It put anemic canned soup to shame and rocked my daughter’s taste buds.
The sandwiches arrived before we were halfway through, and snatched our attention away from the tasty bouillon. My better half’s cheddar, swiss and mozzarella blend seeped out every side of her pliant flatbread. “You’re lucky I’m sharing this with you,” she said as she carefully monitored the size of my bite. I couldn’t help but agree: pepperoni and banana peppers gave it an unexpected kick, while a luscious garlic spread tied all of the flavours together. My own light, fluffy ciabatta boasted a thin crust and served as the perfect platform for the ranch dressing, tender grilled chicken and crisp vegetables under a molten layer of swiss cheese.
As the last few bites of our deeply satisfying light dinners vanished, the Tea Place once again demonstrated attentive service: our cinnamon bun was delivered, heated and with three forks, at precisely the right time. The delectable treat covered the entire plate. Sweet cream cheese nearly concealed the bun itself from view, and the aroma was divine. We tore into it despite having dulled our hunger on our meals and sat back, very well satisfied.
At this perfect little place to while away an afternoon over a single pot of tea, we dined for a little over $20 plus a couple of toonies in the tip jar. I could see myself enjoying a romantic pre- or post-movie snack, or hanging out with friends around one of the well-used board games. Either way, I hope this precious flower survives among the gray anonymity of its surroundings. If it withered, the concrete maze of foreign-owned shops would be an even duller place. V
The Tea Place
13671 St. Albert Trail • 452-3431
More info about The Tea Place (North) →
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