May. 28, 2008 - Issue #658: Beija Flor
Three Amigos
Three Amigos keeps it all in the family
You’d never know it as you approach the restaurant at the end of Duggan strip mall, but inside is a successful business run by three brothers who know how to cook Mexican—and they should, as they learned all they know from their Mom. Open seven days a week for the past two years, Three Amigos offers dine-in, take-out, delivery and catering service—and the brothers do it all by themselves.
My first impression of The Three Amigos was a bit of a shock. I’d been musing about making reservations for my party of four and was concerned that we would have to wait for a table. Stepping inside the one-room space no bigger than your average Subway restaurant, I think they would’ve laughed if I’d made the phone call.
Yet, unlike a Subway, the room had a life of its own. Hot pink, jungle green and vibrant orange splashed across walls decorated with large, red-beaded sombreros. Upbeat salsa and meringue music from the Spanish equivalent of Much Music blared from the television set in the corner. In some restaurants, the loud music may have seemed intrusive, but here it only served to lighten the mood. The tropical calming effect was immediate and we settled into one of two plastic booths.
“Did you want some menus?” one of the brothers asked, peering over the bar. The grumbling of our stomachs offered a clear response, and he passed us our laminated dinner choices for our perusal. We ordered a round of Jarritos, flavourful soda imported from Mexico ($2.49). I’d never tasted a Guava fruit, but the pink Guava soda served in an old-fashioned glass bottle was refreshing, sweet and tropically yummy.
Chips and cheese ($3.99) seemed an obvious choice for an appetizer, and we ordered two. The triangular tortilla chips were light and crispy, and smothered in white cheddar cheese. For a cheese lover like me, it was pure heaven. We scooped up globs of home-made salsa with each bite, but the star of the show was the creamy guacamole. The beautiful blend of fluffy avocado was the best guacamole I had every tasted.
Our strategy with the entrées was to try a bit of everything, and luckily the menu was quite accommodating in that regard: we zeroed in on the Ultimate Amigo ($17.99), a sampler of all seven exotic-sounding dishes on the menu. We couldn’t wait to indulge in our Mexican dining experience, and didn’t have to wait long.
No more than 10 minutes later, a large platter filled with rice, beans, tortillas, more of that incredible guacamole and every other Mexican dish I could’ve dreamed up arrived. The problem now was where to begin. My eyes darted to one of the only foods I could easily identify, the empanada. Since I was sharing with my husband, I sliced it in half and dug in.
Light and crisp and definitely home-made, the empanada transported me back to my time in Mexico. A staple dish down south, empanadas are similar to a pizza pocket in shape and can be stuffed with everything from potatoes to chicken to veggies. This one contained a zesty combination of shredded chicken and cheese, with a golden pastry exterior that offered the perfect crunch.
Up next was the quesadilla, a thin corn-flour shell folded and stuffed with mozzarella cheese. Salsa and guacamole added spice, but it seemed to lack substance, and I wished it would’ve contained more than cheese.
The tamales, soft corn patties filled with spiced chicken, wrapped in a corn husk and then steamed, were incredible. The steaming had made the corn tender and mushy, while the chicken packed just the right amount of punch. Definitely one of my favourites from the sampler, so much so that I made a mental note to order an entire dish the next time I returned. The chicken faltas, crispy corn tortillas topped with chicken breast, lettuce and melted cheese, were also a fan favourite.
Tacos dorados, deep-friend corn-rolled tortillas stuffed with chicken, potato, spicy Mexican rice and re-friend beans the colour of eggplant helped to round out our Mexican dining experience, and I leaned back in the booth with a sigh of contentment.
Despite a decidedly full sensation, I couldn’t resist the desserts. I decided to order the equivalent of my favourite Mexican entrée, the Empanada de Pina ($4.99). The light and flaky pocket, stuffed with pineapple, deep-fried to a golden brown and sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar, was pure delight, and an excellent finish to our spicy dinner.
Authentic, home-made food is such a treat when it is done well, and each dish from The Three Amigos oozed authenticity. The three brothers have put their talents together to create culinary magic, and for a mere $65.34, including GST and tip for four people, we got the chance to experience it. After the Ultimate Amigo, we now know our favourite dishes and can’t wait to return to try them again. V
Mon - Thu (11 am - 9 pm); Fri (11 am - 10 pm) Sat (12 pm - 9:30 pm), Sun (1:30 pm - 8 pm)
The Three Amigos
4035 - 106 St, 490.6394
More info about The Three Amigos →
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