Feb. 22, 2012 - Issue #853: Folkways
Viva Cuba!
Bringing the melange of Cuban cuisine to Edmonton
» Whyte Avenue's Café Coral de Cuba / Paul Blinov
Lidice Fernandez and Nestora Estevez
10816 - 82 Ave, 780.433.3306
Friendship does not guarantee success in a business venture, but longtime friends Lidice Fernandez and Nestora Estevez are exceptions to this rule. Fernandez and Estevez noticed a palpable absence of Cuban cuisine in the Capital City and decided to break ground as Edmonton's first and only Cuban eatery, Café Coral de Cuba. "This is the first time working in a restaurant for both of us. Nestora is an amazing cook and we thought we would give it a try," recounts Fernandez. "We took over this Whyte Avenue spot in February 2011 and officially opened on September 23 last year."
Fernandez moved to Edmonton many years ago and Estevez arrived in 2005. "We met as neighbours and became good friends," explains Fernandez. Estevez adds that she loves to entertain and cook for friends, and that encouragement from friends was their inspiration to pursue careers as restaurateurs.
"It wasn't easy to find a good location," reveals Fernandez, "and we looked for over a year until we found this one."
Fernandez and Estevez composed a succinct menu of traditional Cuban fare. Cuban cuisine is a colourful and spicy blend of Spanish, African and Caribbean culinary traditions, and the pair opted to include dishes that reminded them of home, but were still approachable to Edmontonians. Pollo Asado and Ropa Vieja are two of Café Coral's preeminent dishes. Pollo Asado features a roasted whole leg and thigh of chicken seasoned with, among other things, lemon juice, garlic and oregano, and served with rice and beans. Ropa Vieja means "old clothes" when translated literally and is a quintessentially Cuban dish that is comprised of shredded beef in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions and peppers.
Cuban sandwiches also grace Café Coral's menu, and consist of crusty bread stuffed generously with roasted pork, ham, Swiss cheese, yellow mustard and dill pickles. Cassava, which is a starchy root vegetable that takes on the role of potatoes in Cuban cuisine, is boiled, sliced and served with mojo (pronounced "mo-ho") sauce. Mojo consists of garlic, oil, citrus juices and an array of spices, and adorns many Cuban dishes. Both Fernandez and Estevez take turns with food preparation, but Fernandez admits that Estevez has a unique talent.
"I follow the recipes exactly, but they always taste a bit different," says Fernandez. "They are Nestora's family recipes and she has a special touch.
"The Cuban community in Edmonton isn't that big and it's only about 1000 people," Fernandez continues, "but we are meeting new people all the time."
Indeed, every Friday Café Coral hosts a Cuban DJ who teaches salsa dancing, and this event draws large crowds.
"He teaches dances like salsa and cha-cha. It starts at 9:30 pm and ends around 1 am. Classes are around an hour, and then there is lots of music and dancing," explains Fernandez, adding, "Another guy comes once a month to play with his trio—the Marco Clavieria Project. It's mostly traditional Cuban music."
Fernandez and Estevez are both impressed at the warm reception that Edmonton has bestowed upon them. "People like the music, the food and the environment. We tried to recreate a traditional Cuban café here, which is meant to be relaxing. There is no pressure—just enjoy yourself," recommends Fernandez.
Fernandez and Estevez enjoy the atmosphere as much as their customers do, and have disproven the notion that good friends do not make good business partners. vueweekly.com comments: powered by Disqus
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