Jul. 16, 2008 - Issue #665: Surviving the Industry

Wildflower Grill

In bloom

From the outside looking in, it doesn’t look hard to try something new. A small, successful independent restaurant “chain” that tries a new type of approach, built on the experience earned, doesn’t seem that hard: lease a location, hire a different interior designer and poach the best damn chef you can find. If it all comes together, it’s incredible. Wildflower Grill is incredible.

From the outside looking in, Wildflower Grill is quiet and unassuming. The new crown jewel in the L’Azia chain sits across the street from the renowned Il Portico, within the street-level façade of the facelifted Matrix Hotel (formerly the Inn on 7th). 

I pushed my way through the door and into the warm, comfortable space inside. I barely had time to take in the cream and sage leather seats, mid-toned wood and whitewashed walls sporting wildflower art beneath 14-foot ceilings before Joseph, smiling broadly, welcomed me. The head server led me to a corner table for one against the enormous, street-level window. 

Joseph returned quickly to ask about my wine selection. I ignored the hefty book on my table and asked for a glass of red wine, he selected a 2006 Mark West Pinot Noir ($13) from the list off the top of his head. 

I returned to the menu and the internal debate I was having between the lamb ($38) and a “Poussin Two Ways” for $29. The coq au vin with ham, Emmenthal and spaetzle was winning until Joseph suggested that, as good as it was, it was still chicken. I grinned and decided on the lamb. 

I knew that I wasn’t going to have the appetite for both appetizer and dessert, so I gambled on their sweets trolley and regretfully passed on one of the luscious apps. With my lamb, I was promised a pomegranate glaze, panko crust and Yorkshire pudding on the side, along with a creamy fondue. It sounded heavenly, and I sipped at my vibrant, bold wine as I settled in to wait.

My Wildflower Grill meal began with a small amuse bouche on a silver spoon. A small cube of cool, cured tuna sat next to a serving of crème fraîche less than half the size of a pat of butter under a single sprig of greenery. Exactly as intended, the soft and slightly chewy morsel sufficed to perk up my taste buds in anticipation of what was to come.

Joseph came by soon after to sweep the small plate out of my way and replace it with a long white rectangular platter, which held a chrome measuring ladle, warm brioche roll and a small tray of two types of organic butter—cow and goat. 

The warm roll was firm under each spread, but my palate wasn’t refined enough to tell much difference between the two. The goat butter seemed milder, but that was all. I toyed with it and finished half, rinsing out each second bite with the round flavours of the Pinot over the next half hour.

The downtown shadows were growing longer when Joseph approached with an enormous, square white platter. Between two halves of puffed Yorkshire pudding, my lamb chops were interlaced vertically and supported by a steaming stack of vegetables. They rested against a small, square white fondue set. Joseph lit the candle and left me to the exquisite aromas of my meal.

Each tender bite of lamb included its sweetened, crisp crust and melted on my tongue. It combined beautifully with the sautéed asparagus and peppers. The slice of nectarine underneath was an unexpected treat.I dipped the occasional bite into the creamy, garlic-infused herb Fontina fondue with great delight. I shredded bits of brioche and Yorkshire pudding when it felt right.

For the price, the amount of food wasn’t overwhelming. I polished off the meal and, while glad I hadn’t ordered an appetizer, still had room for dessert. The menu featured several ports, ice wines and specialty coffees, but I zeroed in on the $12 dessert selections. I skimmed past the exotic cheesecake, frangipane tart and beignets to settle on a chocolate tasting or the “Canadiana.”

My choice was a patriotic jackpot. Another square platter arrived quickly, boasting a sweet glass of pear ice wine, a pair of tiny ginger snaps and a scoop of pistachio ice cream rolled in crushed pistachios. The elderberry panna cotta was a mysterious, gelatinous ring with a rich, sweet flavour and the tiny daub of maple parfait was heavenly. I inhaled the whole without putting down my fork, swirled my Pinot Blanc and toasted the Wildflower Grill before downing the last of my wine. Mission accomplished, I tossed my white linen napkin casually on top of my empty plate. Wow. Including tax and tip, I was nearly $100 poorer and exceptionally well-fed.

When it all doesn’t come together, Wildflower Grill is less incredible. Still suffering growing pains, it has earned some negative word of mouth from the first wave of patrons. However, with the right timing—and the right server—the Wildflower Grill is a splendid new jewel in Edmonton’s culinary diamond mine. V

Sun - Thu (11 am - 2 pm, 5 pm - 9 pm 
Fri - Sat (11 am - 2 pm, 5 pm - 10 pm)
Wildflower Grill
10009 - 107 St, 780.990.1938

More info about Wildflower Grill →

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