Jul. 13, 2011 - Issue #821: The Beer Issue

Into the Crypt

Caves, precipices and waterfalls accentuate signature hike

The clouds are foreboding at Waterton Lakes National Park in Southern Alberta. The Rockies loom hard and heavy above us, tearing at the underbelly of the grey sky. Hunkered into the protection of the cabin with about eight other brave souls, we survey the wind-whipped whitecaps lapping the marina.

During peak season, Waterton Shoreline Cruises runs a boat at 9 am and 10 am to Crypt Lake Landing. As we reach the dock at the end of our 12-minute ride, we're issued warnings about bear country and wildlife sightings. The captain seems to get a sadistic thrill from scaring his passengers with stories of bears and people falling to their deaths over the edge of waterfalls. The message is clear: be careful.

Before we step off the boat, I see a thin gap in the clouds bleeding blue skies beyond. The forest welcomes us with its unmistakable smell and a chorus of birds sing our arrival. After a few steps, we're greeted by the first of an ongoing parade of wildflowers.
There are so many, we lose count of the varieties—wild rose, Indian paintbrush, and sparrow's egg lady slipper are just a few. The sun starts to break through the clouds more frequently as we climb through the alpine meadows. We strip off some layers and catch our breath where the trees open up to a view of a 30-foot cascade of roaring water, the first of many falls we'll see. Things are definitely looking up.

There's a reason Crypt Lake is rated so highly in guidebooks and publications—it's spectacular and it has everything you could ask for. Starting in the trees, there's a side path to Hell-Roaring Canyon and Falls.

Higher up, the forest opens into glades and meadows that allow dizzying views of the jagged mountains on either side of the valley. Waterfalls come in all sizes and intensities and are seen from far, near and by walking across some of the more trickling variety. Those looking for exercise will be satisfied with the switchbacks that make up a good portion of the 700 vertical metres gained while walking nine kilometres in.

You're likely to see wild critters ranging from the wee to the scary. We see plenty of chipmunks along the way and at the last river crossing before we reach the lake I make my first marmot sighting. Pleased with himself and unbothered by the humans in the vicinity, he soaks in the sun on his rocky perch.

The grand finale of the hike starts with a steel ladder that takes us into the mouth of a tunnel. For about 20 metres, we walk through the mountain itself, with only a few feet of rock making up the tunnel wall on the inside and a sheer cliff on the outside.

The narrowing gap opens onto a rocky promontory. From there, we follow a thin ledge, hundreds of feet up the side of the cliff. With no harnesses or clips, we hold tightly to the cable support bolted into the mountain. We're in one-wrong-step territory, but we make the right steps and make it to the ridge. The adrenaline surge makes the payoff all the more sweet.

We're at the top of the 160-metre waterfall we've been spying for the last half of the hike. From this vantage point we gaze across the valley to the mountains all around. Over the ridge, Crypt Lake is cerulean blue and icy cold. Snow creeps down the mountain backdrop into the clear waters. Perfect.
But perfection never lasts. Being a popular hike, the campsites near Crypt Lake are full up and we have to catch the 5:30 pm shuttle back across the lake or we're stranded. Because we're Ferdinand-the-Bull-style hikers, that doesn't give us much time to relax before we have to get back on the trail.
The time constraints of the shuttle are an unfortunate aspect of Crypt Lake. Another small drawback is the fact that this trail can't be a loop. We cover the same ground on the way down. Tromping down the mountain is faster than the way up, and we get to the landing  minutes before the shuttle.
Crypt Lake is the signature hike in Waterton Lakes, and for good reason. It showcases a lot of the great qualities of the Park—abundant wildflowers, stunning mountain vistas, lots of waterfalls, lakes and wildlife.

But because it is such a marquee walk, there are plenty of people. At the landing, there are about 25 hikers waiting for the boat. This is the only time we've seen them all in one spot, but we stayed well behind the crowd.

People that enjoy solitude in the mountains will feel like they're getting into a few traffic jams at Crypt Lake, but that popularity has benefits, too. The demand makes sure there are two shuttles daily, giving everyone access to this superb trek.

Before the boat comes we've got just enough time to take off our boots and stick our aching feet in the therapeutically cold waters of Middle Waterton Lake. I soak my feet as long as possible and then pull back to sit on the pebble beach.

With that sore but satisfied feeling, I munch an apple and enjoy the sun's warmth. A butterfly lands on my toe, hinting at the invisible ripples caused by our actions. But just as quickly it's gone, leaving behind only a sense of satisfaction at the day. 
 


Crypt keepers
Reservations are recommended for the Shoreline Cruise or Crypt Lake shuttle: watertoncruise.com
Before you go, check out the Parks Canada website for more information: pc.gc.ca.

Tipi time
For a different experience, or if you don't want to bother setting up a tent, make a reservation for one of the new Tipi sites at Crandell mountain campsite. Spend the night in a historical tipi that sleeps up to six. Call 403.859.5133 to make reservations or email waterton.info@pc.gc.ca for more information.

Waterton classics
There are plenty of things to see and do in Waterton besides Crypt Lake. Those looking for easier days can take shorter treks up Bear's Hump or the free shuttle to Red Rock Canyon. For more strenuous hikes, the Akamina-Carthew pass has some of the most stunning views in the Rockies. Many locals prefer these trails to the busier Crypt Lake.

Check in at the information centre for ongoing activities including the ever-popular interpretive evenings and the yearly knapweed rodeo (July 24 this year), an attempt to eradicate the invasive species from the Blakiston Fan, the glacier-carved flats leading up to the lakes. Prizes are awarded for tallest weed, biggest root system and the like.

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